was
established on January 1, 2000 as the fourth national park in the Czech Republic. It
borders on the German National Park Sächsische Schweiz (Saxonian Switzerland), which
was established ten years before (1990). The entire Bohemian-Saxonian Switzerland is one
of the traditional and best known touristic areas in Central Europe. This tradition goes
back to the period of romanticism, when Swiss and German painters "discovered"
the surrounding nature. One of them was also the famous Caspar David Friedrich (1774 -
1840). This period of time was the birth of the romantic-sounding name for the area -
Saxonian and later also Bohemian Switzerland. It is worth noting that the oldest mountain
association on the territory of the present Czech Republic, founded according to the
example of alpine associations, was the Bohemian Switzerland Mountain Association
(Gebirgsverein für die Böhmische Schweiz, founded in 1878 in Děčín). This
association, together with the Mountain Association for the Northernmost Bohemia
(Gebirgsverein für das nördlichste Böhmen) and the owners of the domain (the Kinskys
and Clary-Aldringens) played an important role in making Bohemian Switzerland accessible
for tourists. Since then tourism has always been an important source of income for local
inhabitants. After 1945, when the majority of the German population was expelled from the
country, a significant interruption in the continuity of the cultural and historical
development of Bohemian Switzerland set in. It has just been in the last decade that
Bohemian Switzerland has been rediscovered in connection with political changes in Central
Europe and especially with the establishment of the Saxonian Switzerland National Park;
the efforts rounded off by the establishment of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park.
The main object of protection in the
Bohemian Switzerland National Park is a very characteristically developed sandstone
phenomenon, i.e. unique geomorphology sandstone rock towns and the related biodiversity.
The national park covers a part of the larger Elbe Sandstones (Elbsandsteingebirge)
geomorphological unit, which covers an area of about 700 km2 on both sides of
the border. The Bohemian Switzerland National Park covers an area of 79 km2;
the remaining part of the Elbe Sandstones in Bohemia is covered with the Elbe Sandstones
Protected Landscape Area. The bilateral unit of the Bohemian and Saxonian Switzerland
National Parks constitutes a representative example of block sandstones of the Bohemian
Cretaceous Basin, which is unique in Europe as far as the extent is concerned (a total of
172 km2) with minimal settlement (there are only two small villages within both
national parks).
Characteristics of the area
Saxonian-Bohemian Switzerland, which is
also known as Elbsandsteingebirge, is an erosion landscape extended along the Elbe valley
on both sides of the German-Czech border (the nearest large city is Dresden). This area
was formed in the Cretaceous period of the Mesozoic. After retreat of the Cretaceous sea,
the compact table of horizontal strata (sand deposits up to 600 m thick) was deformed due
to movements of the Earth´s crust and the typical erosion relief of the landscape
developed. From the standpoint of the landscape ecology, the horizontal structure of the
landscape in the Elbsansteingebirge can be characterized as follows (Härtel et Hadincová
1998): the sandstone areas form a matrix that is cut by the Elbe River and its side
streams (=corridors), and relative uniformity of which is enriched by locally dispersed
Tertiary volcanic hills (=patches), which result in a significant increase in biodiversity
of the area. From the standpoint of the vertical structure of the landscape, three levels
of the Elbsandsteingebirge can be recognized: table mountains, platforms and canyons or
valleys.
In its geomorphological
classification, a predominant part of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park consists of
the Jetřichovické stěny (Jetřichovice rocks walls) geomorphological subunit -
extensive areas of rock and forest complexes, with practically no settlements and a very
diverse geomorphology. One of the best known objects in this part of the National Park is
the Pravčická brána (Prebischtor) National Nature Monument - a rock bridge that is
unique in Europe. Jetřichovice rocks are also frequently visited by tourists, especially
the look-out points Mariina skála, Vilemínina stěna or Rudolfův kámen, as well as the
rock castles (Šaunštejn, Falkenštejn, etc.). The most frequently visited place in the
northern part of Jetřichovice rock walls is the Kyjov valley, which continues to the the
Křinice/Kirnitzsch gorge. The area of the sandstone blocks of the Jetřichovice rock
walls is frequently enriched by individual outcrops of basalt elevations, e.g. at the
hills Větrovec, Mlýny, Goliště, Suchý vrch, in the Ponova louka Nature Reserve or on
Český vrch. Geologically very interesting are the outcrops of Jurassic limestones along
the Lusatian discontinuity (the valley of the Bílý potok brook).
The southern part of the national
park includes the boundary areas of the Děčínské stěny (Děčín rock walls) subunit.
A characteristic feature of this part is the Kamenice river, which - with its Tichá and
Divoká (Silent and Wild) gorges - is the most visited site (besides Pravčická brána).
The boats has been in service since the end of the 19th century. Not far away there is the
only hamlet within the national park Mezná (local part of the village Hřensko), with
examples of valuable folk architecture and Mezní Louka - starting point for hikes to
Pravčická brána or to the gorges. South of the gorges there rises the highest point of
the national park and the largest Tertiary basalt elevation of entire Bohemian-Saxonian
Switzerland - the hill Růžák (Rosenberg) (619 m a.s.l.). This dominant landscape
feature is also a national nature reserve of autochtonous forest ecosystems.
Biodiversity of Saxonian-Bohemian Switzerland
The vertical structure of Saxonian-Bohemian
Switzerland creates unique opportunities for biodiversity in relation to the micro- to
mezoclimatic conditions. The sandstones are highly permeable and their surface is quite
dry. In contrast, the system of shady and constantly damp ravines creates quite an
opposite climate. A typical manifestation of the phenomenon of sandstone rock areas is
inversion of the vegetation levels, leading to the presence of montane and sub-montane
species even at altitudes of less than 150 m, e.g. Interrupted Clubmoss (Lycopodium
annotinum), Clasp-leaf Twisted-stalk (Streptopus amplexifolius) and even Yellow
Violet (Viola biflora), from the bryophytes e.g. Lophozia grandiretis, Polytrichum
alpinum, Oligotrichum hercynicum. These gorges are also habitats of natural
occurrence of Norway Spruce (Picea abies) and Silver Fir (Abies alba).
In contrast, dry, relict pine (ass. Dicrano-Pinetum)
and oak-pine (ass. Vaccinio vitis-idaeae-Quercetum) woods with only a few species
(ass. Dicrano-Pinetum) grow on sunny tops of rocks, together with Common Heather (Calluna
vulgaris), Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), Cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea),
Pohlia nutans, Dicranella heteromalla and other acidophytes. However, the shady
edges of rock walls provide a pinewood habitat for a greater number of species, including
Labrador-tea (Ledum palustre), a characteristic species of Bohemian-Saxonian
Switzerland, and a number of peat mosses (Sphagnum sp. div.), occasionally also
Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum). The vegetation of the sandstone rock towns does not
consist only of forest communities but is also characterized by extensive areas of natural
non-forest vegetation, especially communities on the edges of the rocks and also
remarkable communities of cryptograms on the vertical rock walls, e.g. associations Tetraphidetum
pellucidae, Mylietum taylorii, Lophozio guttulatae-Cephalozietum
bicuspidatae.
The extensive rock and forest complexes are also
home of a number of endangered and rare animal species, in particular Lynx (Felis lynx),
Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) and, following a successful reintroduction, the territory of
Bohemian-Saxonian Switzerland has become again home of Peregrine Falcon (Falco
peregrinus).
The water courses also make a significant
contribution to the biodiversity, especially the Kamenice and Křinice streams. The
occurrence of a number of important species is bound to the gorges of these two streams,
amongst the plants e.g. Spring Snowflake (Leucojum vernum), Shady Horsetail (Equisetum
pratense), Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) or Fontinalis
antipyretica, animals are represented by Otter (Lutra lutra), White-throated
Dipper (Cinclus cinclus), Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) or Black Stork (Ciconia
nigra).
Another interesting habitat are the Tertiary
eruptive elevations, that make a very important contribution to the increase of
biodiversity. Herb-rich beech woodlands (ass. Melico-Fagetum) and scree woodlands
(ass. Mercuriali-Fraxinetum) related to the basalt hills, especially at the hill
Růžák, make a remarkable contrast to the acidophilous beech woodlands on the sandstones
(ass. Luzulo-Fagetum). Characteristic species in these forests are e.g. Wood Melick
(Melica uniflora), Nine-leaved Coral-wort (Dentaria enneaphyllos), Coral-wort
(D. bulbifera), rare species are e.g. Hard Shield-fern (Polystichum
aculeatum) or Mountain Currant (Ribes alpinum). The occurence of the
montane bryophytes - Andreaea rupestris, Racomitrium lanuginosum, R.
fasciculare and R. heterostichum - is interesting on slope debris. One of the
rare animals is the grasshopper Pholidoptera aptera bohemica.
Saxonian-Bohemian Switzerland is an area of a
moderate climate with an evident tendency to Atlantic climate (especially in the steep
valleys) with average air temperature of 8° C and average rainfall 700-800 mm. Therefore,
very typical of Saxonian-Bohemian Switzerland is the frequent presence of Atlantic and
sub-Atlantic species (Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, Juncus squarrosus, Hypericum
humifusum, Galium saxatile, Mylia taylorii, Plagiothecium undulatum, Lophozia
longiflora etc.). Famous was especially the isolated occurence of an Atlantic element Hymenophyllum
tunbridgense in Saxonian Switzerland, unfortunately for longer time already extinct
due to overcollecting. Another example of a very unusual occurrence of Atlantic species
are the gametophytes of Trichomanes speciosum discovered in the Saxonian-Bohemian
Switzerland by J. C. Vogel and S. Jeßen (Vogel, Jeßen, Gibby, Jermy and Ellis 1993).
In contrast, thermophilous species
(subpontic and submediterranean elements), e.g. Centaurea stoebe, Eryngium campestre,
Salvia vericillata are quite rare, their distribution is concentrated on the volcanic
hills and especially in the Elbe canyon.
Nature conservation
Since the end of the 19th
century, the entire Bohemian Switzerland has been accessible through a traditional network
of marked trails, especially attractive are two instructive trails around Hřensko (to
Pravčická brána and the Silent gorge) and through Jetřichovické stěny.
To the main tasks of the National
Park Administration belong primarily a consistent protection of the existing natural
ecosystems and a gradual increase of their areas through targetted management of stands
that were affected by forestry practices in the past. It is also an important task of the
Administration to implement a visitors’ management according to the principles of
sustainable tourism, incl. the maintenance of existing touristic facilities. In respect of
the extraordinary natural potential of the bilateral complex Bohemian and Saxonian
Switzerland National Parks, the essential goal is the achievement of category II (National
Park) according to the Wold Conservation Union (IUCN) criteria.
A specific problem at the present time is caused by
an intensive invasion of White Pine (Pinus strobus) into the natural communities.
The first reports of cultivation of this species in Bohemian Switzerland dates from the
year 1798. At present, a massive invasion of Pinus strobus can be observed in the
forests of Bohemian Switzerland. In this area, Pinus strobus is only invading
coniferous forests on acidic substrate (sandstone). Most endangared by the Pinus
strobus invasion seem to be pine or pine-oak forests covering sandstone rocks (Dicrano-Pinetum
and Vaccinio vitis-idaea-Quercetum (syn: Pino-Quercetum)).
Where invasion is very vigorous, very dense stands
of Pinus strobus are formed, followed by a drastic reduction of the herb and ground
layer, gradually leading to the almost complete disappearance of these layers.
Simultaneously, regeneration of Pinus sylvestris becomes impossible. Moreover,
there is a significant overlap between the center of Pinus strobus invasion and the
first (i.e. most valuable) zone of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park. It is quite
clear that radical measures have to be introduced to eradicate the focal points of the
current invasion and to limit further spread of Pinus strobus. However, the
possibilities of eradicating are complicated by the ability of this species to grow on
almost vertical rock faces and on rock edges. |